Chezor Golden Retrievers

YOUR DOG IS READY, ARE YOU?
Some suggestions for the Novice Field Handler

Anyone that has been “in dogs” for any length of time will have had their share of success and failure. The reasons for not qualifying in a test or trial may be varied. Sometimes the dog isn’t trained well enough, or there is a mechanical problem with the test, or sometimes it is just bad luck. But the most frustrating of all is HANDLER ERROR. Whether in obedience or in the field, to NQ because of a mistake that you have made, when your dog has had an outstanding performance, is something that will haunt you…until your friends don’t want to hear about it anymore! The following is a collection of suggestions sent to me by fellow field people, including judges, focusing on errors made in a WC, JH or NAHRA Started Tests. Hopefully these tips will help to prepare you for you next venture into the field. Thank you to Beth Barrett, Sue Armstrong, Jim Drager, Doug McGuire, Laura Jones, Bill Marshall and especially Derek Nicholls for their contributions.

Read the rulebook - this may seem obvious but there are many who don't know the rules as well as they think they do. If you are unsure of something ask the judges even if you are just coming to the line. Remember they are there to help you, as well as judge your performance. Don't rely on the people in the gallery to provide you with information, no matter how old and wise they may appear.
Make sure you have a reliable “fetch” and “hold”. A dog that consistently drops birds, and has to be begged to pick them up, will likely not qualify.
Listen intently to what the judges have to say in their preamble regarding the dos and don’ts for that particular test. If you don't understand, please ask. Good judges want to pass dogs.
Before you get in the holding blind, make sure you know your catalogue number so you can tell the judges. Your number stays with you throughout the test, no matter the running order.
In the holding blind, have the dog face you, with you standing just out of the blind. This way the dog is facing away from the test and is not trying to look around or under the blind.
Make sure you understand which gunning station will shoot and throw first. It is amazing, after having watched the test dog, and maybe several prior competitors run their dogs, how many people come to line and don't know which way to face for the first mark.
Watch the test dog and handler closely. See how the test dog handler approaches the line from behind the holding blind. Could you do it better in order to give your dog the best advantage possible to see the first mark? Just because the test dog handler took a certain route to the line that does not mean it was the best approach. Think for yourself. Remember, you have seen the first mark before, but it will be your dog's first and only chance to see it, so it's up to you to make it as good as possible for him. When you are in the second or third holding blind waiting your turn, visualize exactly how you are going to leave the last holding blind and walk to the line. What you want to accomplish is to make your walk to the line as straight as possible directly toward the first mark. To achieve this, you have to first decide if you are going to come out of the blind on the left or right-hand side. Also you may have to start to walk in an arc to get yourself lined up to your imaginary approach. Keep role playing this in your mind so you will be well prepared for when your number is called. As you are walking up, quietly say to your dog "mark-mark" to try to get him to "lock-in" on the gunner. Watch the ears to see if they pick up. If they do, say "Good dog, that's it". Practice this in your training sessions, don't just wait until the test day.
Take your time at the line. Gather yourself together and go through your routine. Signal the judges only when you are ready and your dogs’ head and spine are in a straight line in the direction of the fall. Make sure you are not standing on their tail feathers! Once you signal the judges you must not speak to your dog again until you are released to run.
Don't "line" (give the direction of the gunner) your dog with your hand in JH/NAHRA Started tests. The handler’s hands must remain quietly at his/her sides while the dog is on line prior to being sent to retrieve. While you may "line" your dog in WC it is not a good habit to adopt when doing "marks". Save the "lining" for when you do blinds or memory birds at the more senior levels.
Don't send your dog to retrieve until the judge gives you the release. Make sure you understand what they are going to say to you. Usually one of them will say "Dog" or your catalogue number.
In the Junior/WC/NAHRA Started tests, you are allowed to hold your dog at the line – take full advantage of this rule. You would be surprised how many handlers come to line with their dog off leash saying that it is “steady” only to have the dog break.
If you have sent your dog from an unusual position, do not be too quick to stand up, get out of the boat or come out from behind the blind. Your movement could disturb your dog, if he is not too far from the line.
Do not manhandle/touch your dog.
If you have a “no-bird”, have another dog or two run before you try to run your dog again. Your dog may be a bit confused and running right away can mess up their mind further. Take time for both of you to settle down and watch another dog before trying it again. Heel your dog off in such a way that you put your body between the dog and the fall.
Do not “whip” the slip cord off during your release. This is an added distraction that may cause your dog to lose the mark. Just let the lead slide out of your hand as the dog moves toward the bird.
In JH you may re-cast (re-send) your dog once if it goes out only about 15 feet and comes back to you. In the WC tests you only have one opportunity to send your dog.
Keep your leash out of sight once the dog has run out to pick up the bird. Tuck it in your pocket.
When your dog is returning to you, having done a nice job, don’t let your nerves cause you to overuse your whistle. Use it only as necessary so as to avoid annoying the judges and your dog!
When dog has to come back across the line and deliver to hand, don't stand right on the line leaning over it to grab the bird out of the dog's mouth. Most dogs view this as a threatening posture. Stand three-four feet back of the line to encourage your dog to come back over it and you can even back up further. Get hold of the bird first and the dog second. Do not drop the bird on the ground. Hand the bird to the judges and get your leash around the dog's neck before turning toward the next mark. Get your dog under control so it does not go after the bird and jump on the judge. You REALLY don’t want an over enthusiastic dog to bite the judge, even accidentally!
If your dog does something that you KNOW eliminates him, “pick up” (call in) the dog yourself. Most judges will appreciate this and view the handler in a favourable light. Smile:-), thank the judges and start thinking about how to address the issue in training.
Wear proper attire. Check the rulebook as to what is appropriate for each test.
If you have any questions during the test, ask the Marshall. The only time, during the test, you should talk directly to the judge is at the preamble and as you are going to the line. All other communication should be through the Marshall.
During a “walk-up” (NAHRA SR) don’t insist that your dog sit once the bird is thrown. Just tell him to “mark” and keep the dog steady with your slip cord. Any fussing with him could cause him to not see the bird.
In JH you may "handle" (give direction by hand and whistle signals) your dog on ONLY ONE mark, if necessary. If you start handling, then you have to continue to do so, all the way to the bird. You can't just blow your whistle then give a vague hand signal and hope the dog will stumble on the bird (“SOB” in the judges book). No handling is allowed in a WC test.
Apart from "handling" on the one mark in JH, as explained above, once you have sent your dog you cannot say anything more until the dog actually picks up the bird. Once the dog has the bird you can encourage it back to you by voice, whistle and hand motions. Judges usually allow some latitude in this regard, at the junior levels.
Always air your dog before going to line. Ask the Marshall what areas you can use and where to avoid.
Remember, keep breathing and above all relax, have fun and enjoy your dog. That is what these tests are all about - being in the great outdoors and enjoying a day of fun with your buddy.

In your training sessions, practice:

¨ Walking up to a line with the dog in one hand and a dummy gun in the other (a stick or pole will do).

¨ Teach your dog to be sent from different positions. For example:

¨ Right or left side

¨ From the handler in a crouched position

¨ Handler sitting on a bucket or a bale of hay

¨ Handler lying on the ground covered with camo (it has happened in a NAHRA test!)

¨ Handler stands behind a low blind with the dog in front of it.

¨ Send your dog out of a boat, which has been partially pulled up onto the shore.

¨ Firing a gun or blowing a duck call BEHIND the dog but have a gunner in front throw a bird/bumper.

¨ Getting your dog to run between decoys on land, at first, and then in water. The dog will fail if it retrieves a decoy in a test. This is a good thing to do with puppies - just lay the decoys out on your lawn so they get use to them.

¨ Establishing a routine. Your test experience should not be a lot different then what you have practised.

Start practising now for the next higher level of competition by:

¨ Getting your dog out of your vehicle and having it heel beside you all the way to the blind/line. Start this controlled heeling right from the start rather than let your dog run towards the line in an uncontrolled fashion. It is far easier to instill good habits from the beginning rather than having to correct them later. This will help you develop heeling to the line off-leash.

¨ Practice honouring the working dog (on leash, to start with). Instead of standing beside your dog, both facing forward, make a quarter turn so you are facing your dog's side. This will be an extra cue that he is not to go for the bird.

¨ If you are on the Internet, visit www.dobbsdogs.com and look under Retrievers - Library. Jim and Phyllis Dobbs have provided an excellent reference source. You don't have to have an e-collar to practice many of the drills suggested. They also have some excellent books and videos.

Compiled by Mary Shillabeer
May 1999
tmatier@telusplanet.net
Calgary, Alberta, CANADA

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